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lotl.com • Lesbians On The Loose Magazine
Food | Lifestyle
Something of an institution in Crows Nest, The Burlington has
been ser ving up fine food and wine to the locals for years. The
restaurant re cently re ceived an injection of fresh energ y thanks to
the employment of new Head Chef Jacqui Gowan who some of you may
know from Ready Steady Cook. Gowan, whose pedigree ranges from stints
at Bathers Pavilion, Garfish and Darling Mills and most recently as Head
Chef at Subsolo, has refined the Burlington menu to lend a more relaxed
bistro fe el to the food on offer with a focus on seasonal produce and fresh
Forg et stuffy fine dining – although the ser vice is still exceptional – and
prepare for The Burlington to deliver a restaurant with a relaxed vibe and
great quality produce.
It’s midweek and we arrive for an early dinner and discover the
banquettes are already filling with diners eag er to sample Gowan’s new
menu. After several minutes p erusal we opt for the salmon gravalax with
radish, watercress, capers and toasted brioche and a wild mushroom and
thyme risotto with Mancheg o che ese to start.
The g ravalax arrives, so vibrant in colour and fresh you almost expect
it to leap from the plate. The micro salad a perfe ct accompaniment to cut
through the strong flavours of the fish with the radish lending just the right
amount of heat. The risotto is equally tasty, beautifully creamy with just a
hint of sharpness thanks to the Manchego cheese and the rice with a nice
amount of bite.
Mains are also impressive; I opt for the grilled Hiramasa kingfish sautéed
asparag us, peas, cos and broad beans while my companion is lure d by the
promise of spanner crab to opt for the pasta. The kingfish is g rilled to
perfection, the skin crisp, the flesh firm yet succulent and the asparag us
and peas an ideal accompaniment. While the spanner crab pasta is tasty,
my fellow diner finds the chilli and garlic a little over whelming of the crab’s
delicate flavour – it is the only minor blip on the night’s proceeding s.
When it comes time to choose dessert we decide to share – a cheese
platter and a passionfr uit tar t are sele cted – and both prove delicious. The
baked tart is ser ved with a quenelle of double cream, a perfe ct marriage to
the tart’s tang y flavour. The cheese sele ction is de cadent. Fourme d’Amber t
with fresh quince paste, Brillat Savarin with pear, swe et apple chutney and
a Pyeng ana cheddar with leather wood hone y – sublime !
Next time you find yourself on the nor th side of the bridge and in search
of a place to dine I recommend a side journe y to Crows Nest to be tempted
by the Burlington’s fine food and wine.
6 Burlington St, Crows Nest, New South Wales 2065
(02) 9439 7888
This Crows Nest establishment delivers upscale
bistro style food with panache. By Cec Busby
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