Home' LOTL : Mar 12 Contents 26 Lesbians On The Loose Magazine • lotl.com
Lifestyle | Food
Backpackers will no doubt be sad to have seen the last of Paddy
McGuires' pub in the Haymarket -- but the theatre crowd is cer-
tain to be rejoicing as the venue has had a makeover since being
taken over by the Metro Hospitality Group. Transformed into a stylish
and contemporary venue that boasts a great bar and brasserie, it is sure
to be a favourite with the 9-5 crowd and the pre-theatre diner, especially
since it's just metres from the Capitol eatre's stage door.
e newly dubbed Yardhouse (named for the popular Yard Glass of
the 1800s) has managed to secure the services of chef Daniel Collins,
previously Head Chef at the Russell Hotel and Wine Bar in Sydney, and
he has developed a brasserie menu that is packed with tempting dishes
that are light, tasty and avoursome. No matter whether you fancy a
plump custom-cooked Wagyu steak or hanker for some Szechuan fare,
Collins' menu will satisfy.
For our visit this evening we opt to share several dishes, starting with
one of Collins' specialties, the chicken liver and brandy parfait. I must
confess I have grown up with this dish, so it comes under great scrutiny
whenever I choose it from a menu. Fortunately Collins' parfait is su-
perb, the chicken liver is buttery in texture and the accompanying red
onion marmalade delivers just enough bite to cut through the richness.
We follow this up with a blue swimmer crab risotto that has been in-
fused with lemon zest and is dappled with zucchini owers and bene ts
from the creaminess of a mascapone cheese that adds to the luxurious-
ness of this dish. is is certainly one of the best risotto's I've tasted in
many a year. Too o en crab is overpowered in creamy dishes, but Collins
has managed to get the balance just right.
Next we take a trip to the Orient with prawn skewers. Ser ved atop a
palm leaf resplendent with a bed of coconut rice, the skewers are char-
grilled to perfection and accompanied by a crisp thai salad of fennel and
coriander and drizzled with a dipping sauce of chili and lime that may
also have a hint of tamarind. Superb!
Lastly, to dessert - and once again we are not disappointed. I choose a
staple -- the chocolate brownie. But Collin's brownie is no ordinary fare.
Infused with orange, stu ed with pistachios and served with a vanilla
bean ice cream it is a tting end to the meal. My partner in crime's sum-
mer berry pudding is also a delight. A vibrant pink sponge, once pierced
it oozes berries and sauce, instantly reminding of those idyllic long lost
summer's of childhood.
Yardhouse Bar and Brasserie
Corner of George and Hay St, Sydney. Ph: 9212 2111.
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